Thursday, February 26, 2015

He says, "25 lashes..."


Yesterday I went to the police station. Again. 

Many of you will know I have had ongoing run ins here with the local government officals. I think it must be my convict origins. I don't take kindly to being told what to do, especially when you decide to lock me in a room and yell at me for half an hour about how my organisation and I are "bad" because we have failed to respect the culture and values of Siberia.

That really ticked me off. 

I am "bad" because I choose to follow the laws of Siberia. It might also be that I have an excellent lawyer who is feared and respected by all. This is because he is able to distinguish between that which is politics and that which is the law. In his words, "the law is our friend, we should use it." 

I am seeing more and more that the law is my friend. It is the enemy of those who like to see themselves as being the law or above the law. In my situation, I am not sure who is going to win, but it has been an interesting experience, although not without some nervous moments.  Being arrested is not something I want to make a habit of.

Because of my situation, I have spent quite a few hours at the police station talking with my lawyer. She is a quiet, considered  lady in her mid forties or early fifties I would guess.  She was educated here in Siberia and works as the second partner in probably the most respected law firm in the country.  Most of her extended family have immigrated. Her husband works in London and they have two older children studying there. She is here alone with her youngest daughter. It cannot be an easy task juggling the demands of being a single parent and having to prevent people like myself from being arrested!

We often talk about mundane issues like the weather or my travels to Dubai. Most times we say nothing, fearing that our conversations can be overheard and used against us by the many people loitering around the station, whose job it is to collect information...

But sometimes we talk about what it's like to be a lawyer. Not only a lawyer but a female lawyer in a context where where the evidence of a woman is only worth half of that of a man.

Justice in this country is certainly not always pleasant or even just.

Yesterday we spent a good two hours, sitting on an old wooden bench, waiting for a judge to come and determine my fate. It was a matter of protocol as the arresting officer had already withdrawn the charge. 

While we sat on the wooden bench,  we watched together as groups of men and women were bought to the police.

First there was a group of South Siberians, who since the separation of the southern part of the country are now consider to be illegal immigrants. They are treated worse than animals. They are rounded up like dogs. They sat or crouched on the dusty ground under the intense heat of the midday sun. The fear in their eyes said it all. They have no hope if they go home and little hope if they stay here. They are arrested and then deported. But still they return and continue to return. Life here in this city offers more than their life back home. That they would be subject to such a life, with little to hope for, leaves me incredibly sad. Many have turned to alcohol to deal with the pain and that in turn leads them to more trouble. It is a vicious cycle.

Then a young Ethiopian man, wearing a Manchester United shirt, was hauled in by a rather portly looking policeman. The young man is cocky and still sports a smile as he is led, in handcuffs, before the judge. The lawyer tells me he has been charged with the possession of illicit drugs. Apparently the fine is 20,000 local currency ($4,000 USD) or several years in prision. I wonder if his family and friends are able to raise such funds? He is not so cocky when he is led away to a prison cell following the decision of the judge.

Then a group of 5-10 men and a similar number of women are bought into the station on a pick-up truck. Some of them have suitcases and other luggage. The men are wearing thick winter coats and sweatshirts which makes little sense to me in the intense 40 degree heat. The lawyer tells me they are Libyan. They have been arrested for drunk and disorderly conduct. The penalty for their crime is 40 lashes. I cannot begin to fathom that kind of punishment, when the first of the men appear from the room that serves as a court.

I am expecting  that he will be led away to a cell to await  his punishment at a later date. Instead, I am shocked to see the man standing spreadeagled, with his back to me, against the wall of the building directly opposite me. A youthful and muscular policeman suddenly appears and begins to meter out the punishment with what looks to be a hollow plastic pipe.

Each of the men at follow receive 25 lashes each. The lawyer tells me that either they have some "friends" or the judge has gone easy on them. The police evenly distributes the lashes between the neck, the back, the buttocks and below the knees.  I understand now why the men are wearing thick heavy jackets. One of the beatings is stopped half way, because the man being punished had cleverly put his wallet in his back pocket. Not so clever, because when the policeman discovers this he restarts his count at one and again dishes out the full punishment...

Two of the men are taken inside for their punishment. Again, the lawyer says that someone has intervened on their behalf. In a culture that avoids loss of face at all costs, being beaten in  the public domain is the ultimate punishment.

The women are sent inside a room. I ask the lawyer if they will be spared the punishment. She says no. I do not see what happens to them, but we hear the dull thud of the plastic pipe echo through the mid day stillness, Even the women are not spared.

I ask the lawyer if the punishment will have any affect on the men and the women? She laughs."They will get drunk again tonight". I suspect she is right.  

I am finally called before the judge. My appearance lasts less than 30 seconds.The policeman withdraws the charge. There are smiles and handshakes all round. The arresting officer is my new best friend.

Sitting on that wooden bench,  I've had plenty of time to think about justice. I am thankful for a good lawyer who has done most of the legwork and the talking to get the charges against me dropped. I know how much we pay her/them and know it is well beyond what most Siberians could ever afford. 

When I arrived in this country I was told by a contact to get myself a good lawyer, as they're all mother*******. Turns out he was probably right.

Justice in this country, and many others, is the privilege of the wealthy and the educated. It is not always whether you are innocent or guilty but whether you know the right people and whether you can afford a good lawyer. Being educated and knowing your rights also helps. 
 
If my lawyer had been willing or able to intervene on behalf of the Ethiopian, the South Siberians or the  Libyans, their punishment could have been reduced, or even prevented. Such is the world we live.

I am told I no longer need to return to the police station. As much as I will not miss spending countless hours waiting for police to come and go, watching them smoking cigarettes at their desks in between shuffling piles of paper and yelling at helpless South Siberians, it has been good to have a sobering reminder of how privileged and fortunate I am as a westerner living in this country compared to the experiences of most other people who are visitors (legally or otherwise).

I suspect that in my case,  I have won the battle but may ultimately lose the war. Let's see just how good my lawyer is and whether she/they are able to deal with those that consider themselves to be the law or above the law. It's going to be an interesting story either way.












 










Monday, February 9, 2015

She says...28 days, 1,000 CVs and 'The Cave'

After completing a couple of short contracts for the Yemen program of the Disaster Response Unit last year, I was still surprised to get a call 3 weeks ago offering me a 4 week contract in northern Iraq.  Excited to be going, humbled to be offered work in a field very foreign to my experience, sad to be leaving him and Rhodes behind, I packed my bag and flew via Qatar to Erbil, the capital of the Kurdistan region of Iraq.

He and I had done some Google-based research before my departure and learned that Erbil is predicted to be the new Dubai. Great wealth, fast cars and heavy investment were hallmarks of a place that I was enthusiastic about exploring. In reality, Erbil might become the new Dubai by 2070, if very, very lucky and a certain OAG* is displaced, or preferably defeated. I have been describing the city as a very run-down version of Amman. I've found quite a few nice cafes, and two even served coffee worthy of a repeat visit. My favourite serves good coffee, pizza and pasta, and has a wonderful view of an enormous tank (one one day I visited), an artillery-pick up (on another visit) uniformed men carrying large and heavy guns, and a lot of army-camouflage fabric. I asked the waiter what they were guarding and was informed that it is the US consulate. Every time a vehicle slowed down in front of the cafe, I felt my muscles tensing, as if perhaps, I would have time to run.

The weather in Erbil has been reasonably nice outside, generally 12-20 degrees during the day, but in the house/office, it’s almost always freezing. We usually only have a few hours of power a day, and then generator power for 4 or 5 hours if we're lucky, so I spend a lot of the time feeling cold and sorry for myself. It’s nothing compared to what most IDPs / Refugees are dealing with, of course. My colleague and I have affectionately dubbed the house/office ‘The Cave’. It’s dark, cold and really not that pleasant. But what joy upon discovering a hot water bottle in the bathroom (wonderful when the power has been on long enough to warm the water!).

My role here is basically ensuring we’ve got everything we need to run the head office including:
1. Functioning utilities (ha! No power or generator today for 8h so I nearly froze and my computer battery drained so I couldn’t do any work)
2. ADSL (none of the 20 companies we’ve contacted can provide it here)
3. Transport (taxis are currently deemed an abduction risk for expats, but it’s the only mode of transport we have)
4. Staff and interviews. I advertised 4 positions here for national staff and 5 in Duhok, and I received almost 1,000 applications.  About 10% of the applicants applied for at least 2 and sometimes all 9 positions. The Translator needs to be female (culturally, and women tend to be more accurate at translation), and despite it saying so in the job requirements, 90% of the applicants are male, and many don’t speak English. 
5. An established relationship with all key stakeholders. This one is actually going ok, but it seems so crazy to be getting known when I’m leaving in 2 weeks. Hopefully people are connecting with the organisation and not me.

I'm due to finish up at the end of next week. He and I have a planned rendezvous in Dubai for relaxing weekend before heading home. I'm really, really looking forward to it. A great opportunity to be here, good for my CV, and good for building relationships in the organisation, but 4 weeks apart is too long. I miss him and I miss Rhodes.

To finish up, I thought I'd share some of the pearls that I've read in the 600-odd CVs I've managed to get through so far. I admit that if I were to apply for a job in Arabic or Kurdish, someone could write a very funny blog about mine:

Regarding language ability:
"Excellent level of extreme Kurdish"

"English: not bad"

"Being bilingual gives me the chance to function efficiently in both English and Arabic and Kurdish."

"I like English language and it is a part of my body."






Motivation statements and Greetings:
"I need Developed, rival, creator, I will give him my experiences to we grow together, Managing in a modern style, Believes that the team perform more than personnel."

"I am pleased to be one the interview that submitting to work in your company if possible I would enjoy to be interviewed"

"I am ready to do my best in work and work hardly"

"if you feel that i am feet for any of this position"

"Hope My Email finds You as well"

"Dear NGO stuff"

"I had other skills and experiences, which I able to describe with you by meeting, because all the time I am going to build my acknowledgment."


General gems:
"Accunted 2003-2005, Accunted 2006-2007, Translator 2008"

"I'm working on Duhok with displaced people who want to get a job Advanced training nudity CV Writing"

"Name: Ahmed Mohammed, Date of Birth 26 September 1991, Sexual: Syrian Kurd"





* OAG = Organised Armed Group. I think I had added at least 30 new acronyms to my brain database since arriving here; 28 belong to various militias and political parties and the other 2 are yet to be identified. To add to the confusion, each group seems to be known by at least 3 different names.